Rat/mice infestation
Are you hearing scampering sounds in the middle of the night? Have you noticed that Fluffy and Rex seem to be going crazy over a certain corner in the wall? You may have a rodent infestation in your home. Find out how to tell if your home is the new home of mice and rats.
Signs of Rodent Infestation
Although these creatures are nocturnal, which means you probably can’t catch them during the day, they leave behind distinct marks that let you know they have invaded your house. Rodent droppings are the telltale signs of rodent infestation. You are likely to find these where you store food, in the cupboards, under the sink, along the walls, at the top of wall studs and beams and in storage boxes or closets.
Rodents build their nests from fuzzy and soft materials, such as shredded paper, dry grass, small twigs, furniture stuffing, fabric and so on. They can create nests in boxes, cabinets, closets, the spaces between floors and ceilings, dresser drawers, appliances and even machinery. This is because rodents nest in quiet locations close to food and water. The size and shape of the droppings indicate what kind of rats are in the house.
More Signs of Rodent Infestation
Grease marks are another sign that you have rodents in your house. Mice and rats leave greasy marks from oil and dirt in their coats as they squeeze into openings as small as a quarter of an inch. The larger the grease marks, the more likely you have rats.
You may also notice things that have been gnawed on, such as wood, fabric, plastic and paper. Since their incisor teeth continuously grow, rats and mice have to gnaw on things to keep them in check. This is especially dangerous, as they like to chew on electrical wiring, which can cause structural fires.
Rodents create feeding stations, where they collect food and leave larger droppings. Watch for half eaten or nibbled on food boxes and containers, especially pasta, rice, beans and dog food. In addition, if you notice a stale, musky odor that you can’t quite put your finger on, chances are you have mice and rats in the house.
Getting Rid of Rodents
See if you can find tail and feet tracks in dustier spots of the house, or try to listen for rodents during the night. You will likely hear squeaky noises and rustling as they move between nests. Track where the rodents travel by dusting baby powder or flour along areas, such as kitchen walls or other places where they are likely to scurry. This is also good for monitoring rats after you’ve cleared out an infestation.
If it seems like you have more than one or two rodents living with you, it’s best to call an exterminator who can get rid of the nests, not just kill the rodent. Not all mice and rats are dangerous, but many are, so it’s best to rodent proof your house
http://ping.fm/TE4kp
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Exterminator tells how to stop rats and mice
Ampm exterminators stop the entry of rats and mice!
The key is sealing all the entry holes shut, and setting the traps in just the right spots.
Damage from Rats and Mice -
Rats can harbor and transmit a number of serious diseases. They introduce disease-carrying parasites such as fleas, flies, lice, ticks and mites into your home or business. Rats are instinctively wary of traps and bait. Both rats and mice nest in attics, burrows, in wall voids, sub-areas and other hard to reach places.
Mice invade your home or business seeking food, water and warmth. One pair of mice can produce 200 offspring in four months! Each mouse can contaminate ten times more food than it eats.
Rodents' keen instincts make them difficult to control, and they present a serious menace to your home or business.
http://ping.fm/I9HuA
The key is sealing all the entry holes shut, and setting the traps in just the right spots.
Damage from Rats and Mice -
Rats can harbor and transmit a number of serious diseases. They introduce disease-carrying parasites such as fleas, flies, lice, ticks and mites into your home or business. Rats are instinctively wary of traps and bait. Both rats and mice nest in attics, burrows, in wall voids, sub-areas and other hard to reach places.
Mice invade your home or business seeking food, water and warmth. One pair of mice can produce 200 offspring in four months! Each mouse can contaminate ten times more food than it eats.
Rodents' keen instincts make them difficult to control, and they present a serious menace to your home or business.
http://ping.fm/I9HuA
Ant control extermination
Ants are probably the most frequent as well as neverending bugs stumbled upon close to people’s homes and buildings. Other than being a bother, ants ruin food, structure unsightly mounds entirely on our property, and contribute to structural destruction by hollowing out wood for nesting. Species such as fire ants inflict unpleasant stings, which have been life-threatening to oversensitive men and women.
To many householders, most ants look fairly much identical. In fact, plenty of varied types occur surrounding residences and structures, each possessing unique characteristics which might effect the method of ant extermination. In Kentucky, the most frequent house-invading ants are pavement ants, carpenter ants, acrobat ants, pharaoh ants, and odorous house ants. The last species has become a distinctive annoyance these days, and will be discussed eventually at length. Comprehending which ant(s) you’ve got oftentimes requires assistance from an entomologist or seasoned pest control firm. Obtaining a few of the non-winged worker ants in a plastic bag or vial can certainly help with subsequent recognition.
Struggling with ants can be quite irritating. This post can help you control them, or at best fully understand the moment you are going to get in touch with an expert.
Ant Extermination and Control
The mistake nearly everybody make when trying to deal with ants is simply spraying the ones they see. This approach ordinarily fails given that the ants seen foraging over exposed areas is only a small part of the colony. Generally, you might have thousands of additional ants which includes at least one egg-laying queens covered someplace inside of a nest. Removing queens along with other colony members throughout nests can often be the key ingredient toward good ant extermination.
Ants Nesting In the House
Structures involve several convenient hiding and nesting locations for ants. Desired places consist of spots behind walls, cupboards, and home appliances; behind window and door frames; and also under flooring surfaces and concrete slabs. Many of these areas are hidden, which makes it tough to determine their exact nesting site. In cases where the position of the nest can not be discovered or is unavailable, pesticide baits usually are a good alternative, especially for home owners.
The appeal in using baits is the fact that foraging ants carry the insecticide back to the nest and supply it to the queen(s) along with other colony members. Consequently, the total colony typically is destroyed. The majority of baits sold to homeowners are available pre-packaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within the plastic, child-resistant container.
http://ping.fm/JjPkP
To many householders, most ants look fairly much identical. In fact, plenty of varied types occur surrounding residences and structures, each possessing unique characteristics which might effect the method of ant extermination. In Kentucky, the most frequent house-invading ants are pavement ants, carpenter ants, acrobat ants, pharaoh ants, and odorous house ants. The last species has become a distinctive annoyance these days, and will be discussed eventually at length. Comprehending which ant(s) you’ve got oftentimes requires assistance from an entomologist or seasoned pest control firm. Obtaining a few of the non-winged worker ants in a plastic bag or vial can certainly help with subsequent recognition.
Struggling with ants can be quite irritating. This post can help you control them, or at best fully understand the moment you are going to get in touch with an expert.
Ant Extermination and Control
The mistake nearly everybody make when trying to deal with ants is simply spraying the ones they see. This approach ordinarily fails given that the ants seen foraging over exposed areas is only a small part of the colony. Generally, you might have thousands of additional ants which includes at least one egg-laying queens covered someplace inside of a nest. Removing queens along with other colony members throughout nests can often be the key ingredient toward good ant extermination.
Ants Nesting In the House
Structures involve several convenient hiding and nesting locations for ants. Desired places consist of spots behind walls, cupboards, and home appliances; behind window and door frames; and also under flooring surfaces and concrete slabs. Many of these areas are hidden, which makes it tough to determine their exact nesting site. In cases where the position of the nest can not be discovered or is unavailable, pesticide baits usually are a good alternative, especially for home owners.
The appeal in using baits is the fact that foraging ants carry the insecticide back to the nest and supply it to the queen(s) along with other colony members. Consequently, the total colony typically is destroyed. The majority of baits sold to homeowners are available pre-packaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within the plastic, child-resistant container.
http://ping.fm/JjPkP
Getting Rid of Carpenter Ants
Ants are probably the most frequent as well as neverending bugs stumbled upon close to people’s homes and buildings. Other than being a bother, ants ruin food, structure unsightly mounds entirely on our property, and contribute to structural destruction by hollowing out wood for nesting. Species such as fire ants inflict unpleasant stings, which have been life-threatening to oversensitive men and women.
To many householders, most ants look fairly much identical. In fact, plenty of varied types occur surrounding residences and structures, each possessing unique characteristics which might effect the method of ant extermination. In Kentucky, the most frequent house-invading ants are pavement ants, carpenter ants, acrobat ants, pharaoh ants, and odorous house ants. The last species has become a distinctive annoyance these days, and will be discussed eventually at length. Comprehending which ant(s) you’ve got oftentimes requires assistance from an entomologist or seasoned pest control firm. Obtaining a few of the non-winged worker ants in a plastic bag or vial can certainly help with subsequent recognition.
Struggling with ants can be quite irritating. This post can help you control them, or at best fully understand the moment you are going to get in touch with an expert.
Ant Extermination and Control
The mistake nearly everybody make when trying to deal with ants is simply spraying the ones they see. This approach ordinarily fails given that the ants seen foraging over exposed areas is only a small part of the colony. Generally, you might have thousands of additional ants which includes at least one egg-laying queens covered someplace inside of a nest. Removing queens along with other colony members throughout nests can often be the key ingredient toward good ant extermination.
Ants Nesting In the House
Structures involve several convenient hiding and nesting locations for ants. Desired places consist of spots behind walls, cupboards, and home appliances; behind window and door frames; and also under flooring surfaces and concrete slabs. Many of these areas are hidden, which makes it tough to determine their exact nesting site. In cases where the position of the nest can not be discovered or is unavailable, pesticide baits usually are a good alternative, especially for home owners.
The appeal in using baits is the fact that foraging ants carry the insecticide back to the nest and supply it to the queen(s) along with other colony members. Consequently, the total colony typically is destroyed. The majority of baits sold to homeowners are available pre-packaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within the plastic, child-resistant container.
http://ping.fm/Dlu00
To many householders, most ants look fairly much identical. In fact, plenty of varied types occur surrounding residences and structures, each possessing unique characteristics which might effect the method of ant extermination. In Kentucky, the most frequent house-invading ants are pavement ants, carpenter ants, acrobat ants, pharaoh ants, and odorous house ants. The last species has become a distinctive annoyance these days, and will be discussed eventually at length. Comprehending which ant(s) you’ve got oftentimes requires assistance from an entomologist or seasoned pest control firm. Obtaining a few of the non-winged worker ants in a plastic bag or vial can certainly help with subsequent recognition.
Struggling with ants can be quite irritating. This post can help you control them, or at best fully understand the moment you are going to get in touch with an expert.
Ant Extermination and Control
The mistake nearly everybody make when trying to deal with ants is simply spraying the ones they see. This approach ordinarily fails given that the ants seen foraging over exposed areas is only a small part of the colony. Generally, you might have thousands of additional ants which includes at least one egg-laying queens covered someplace inside of a nest. Removing queens along with other colony members throughout nests can often be the key ingredient toward good ant extermination.
Ants Nesting In the House
Structures involve several convenient hiding and nesting locations for ants. Desired places consist of spots behind walls, cupboards, and home appliances; behind window and door frames; and also under flooring surfaces and concrete slabs. Many of these areas are hidden, which makes it tough to determine their exact nesting site. In cases where the position of the nest can not be discovered or is unavailable, pesticide baits usually are a good alternative, especially for home owners.
The appeal in using baits is the fact that foraging ants carry the insecticide back to the nest and supply it to the queen(s) along with other colony members. Consequently, the total colony typically is destroyed. The majority of baits sold to homeowners are available pre-packaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within the plastic, child-resistant container.
http://ping.fm/Dlu00
Monday, March 7, 2011
AmPm Exterminators
Pest Control, Carpenter Ants, Spiders, Rodents, Exclusion-Clean-Up Decontamination, Wasps, Odorous House Ants, Sugar Ants, Carpet Beetles, Clothing Pests, Food Pests, Termites, Fleas, Cockroaches, & Silverfish
House Mouse Prevention & Control
*The house mouse (Mus musculus) is considered one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. House mice live and thrive under a variety of conditions in and around homes and farms. House mice consume food meant for humans or pets. They contaminate food-preparation surfaces with their feces, which can contain the bacterium that causes food poisoning (salmonellosis). Their constant gnawing causes damage to structures and property.
Recognizing Mouse Infestations
Droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests, made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, are often found in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are occasionally seen during daylight hours.
House Mouse Facts
House mice are gray or brown rodents with relatively large ears and small eyes. An adult weighs about 1/2 ounce and is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long, including the 3 to 4 inch tail.
Although house mice usually feed on cereal grains, they will eat many kinds of food. They eat often, nibbling bits of food here and there. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up 13 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. They can slip through a crack that a pencil will fit into (sightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter).
In a single year, a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months.
Prevention and Control
Effective mouse control involves sanitation, mouse proof construction and population reduction. The first two are useful as preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction is almost always necessary. Reduction techniques include trapping and poisoning.
Sanitation. Mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter. Consequently, no matter how good the sanitation, most buildings in which food is stored, handled or used will support house mice if not mouse-proofed. Although good sanitation will seldom eliminate mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Good sanitation will also reduce food and shelter for existing mice and in turn make baits and traps more effective. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to rest, hide or build nests and rear young, they cannot survive in large numbers.Mouse-Proof Construction. The most successful and permanent form of house mouse control is to "build them out" by eliminating all openings through which they can enter a structure. All places where food is stored, processed or used should be made mouse-proof. Dried grain and meat products should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters or other resealable airtight containers.
Seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude mice. Steel wool mixed with caulking compound makes a good plug. Patching material needs to be smooth on the surface to prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound. Seal cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents and utilities with metal or concrete. Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber or other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice
Traps. Trapping is an effective control method. When only a few mice are present in a building, it is usually the preferred control method. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons, (2) it permits the user to make sure that the mouse has been killed and (3) it allows for disposal of the mouse carcasses, thereby avoiding dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
The simple, inexpensive wood-based snap trap is effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Bait traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. Multiple-capture live traps, which can capture several mice once set, are also available in some hardware and feed stores. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of mouse activity is seen. Place them so that mice will pass directly over the
Poison Baits (Rodenticides). Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold. Do not buy unlabeled rodent baits from street vendors or other uncertain sources. Do not purchase baits that have an incomplete label or one that appears to be “homemade.”
“Building out” rodents and trapping are the most effective control methods. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and mouse-proofing should be improved. Remember that rodent baits are poisons. Make sure they are registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and always follow the label instructions exactly. If baits are used indoors, be sure they are labeled specifically for interior use.
The active ingredients in baits are used at very low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits cause death only after they are eaten for a number of days, although some types can cause death following a single feeding. Make sure that fresh bait is available continuously until mice stop feeding. Depending on the number of mice, this may require up to three weeks.
Bait Selection and Placement. Baits are available in several forms. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are available in small plastic, cellophane or paper packets. These sealed "place packs" keep bait fresh and make it easy to place the baits in burrows, walls or other locations. Mice gnaw into the packet to feed on the bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most situations. Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is important. Place baits in several locations no farther than 10 feet apart and preferably closer. For effective control, baits or traps must be located where mice are living. Use of tamper-resistant bait stations provides a safeguard for people, pets and other animals. Place bait stations next to walls with the openings close to the wall or in other places where mice are active. When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Clearly label all bait stations "Caution—Mouse Bait" as a safety precaution.
Sound and Electronic Devices. Although mice are easily frightened by strange or unfamiliar noises, they quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds and are often found living in grain mills or factories and other noisy locations. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing have very limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they lose their intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established mice or rats from buildings because they rapidly become accustomed to the sound.
Control by Cats and Dogs. Although cats, dogs and other predators may kill mice, they do not give effective control in most circumstances. In fact, rodents may live in very close association with dogs and cats. Mice and rats may obtain much of their diet from the pet's dish or from what pets spill.
Disposal of Dead Rodents
Always wear intact rubber or plastic gloves when removing dead rodents and when cleaning or disinfecting items contaminated by rodents. Put the dead rodent in a plastic bag; the bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tightfitting lids. Traps can be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of three tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol (such as LysolR). After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and warm water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water
Rodentproofing.ampmexterminators.com
Pest Control, Carpenter Ants, Spiders, Rodents, Exclusion-Clean-Up Decontamination, Wasps, Odorous House Ants, Sugar Ants, Carpet Beetles, Clothing Pests, Food Pests, Termites, Fleas, Cockroaches, & Silverfish
House Mouse Prevention & Control
*The house mouse (Mus musculus) is considered one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. House mice live and thrive under a variety of conditions in and around homes and farms. House mice consume food meant for humans or pets. They contaminate food-preparation surfaces with their feces, which can contain the bacterium that causes food poisoning (salmonellosis). Their constant gnawing causes damage to structures and property.
Recognizing Mouse Infestations
Droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests, made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, are often found in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are occasionally seen during daylight hours.
House Mouse Facts
House mice are gray or brown rodents with relatively large ears and small eyes. An adult weighs about 1/2 ounce and is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long, including the 3 to 4 inch tail.
Although house mice usually feed on cereal grains, they will eat many kinds of food. They eat often, nibbling bits of food here and there. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up 13 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. They can slip through a crack that a pencil will fit into (sightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter).
In a single year, a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months.
Prevention and Control
Effective mouse control involves sanitation, mouse proof construction and population reduction. The first two are useful as preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction is almost always necessary. Reduction techniques include trapping and poisoning.
Sanitation. Mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter. Consequently, no matter how good the sanitation, most buildings in which food is stored, handled or used will support house mice if not mouse-proofed. Although good sanitation will seldom eliminate mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Good sanitation will also reduce food and shelter for existing mice and in turn make baits and traps more effective. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to rest, hide or build nests and rear young, they cannot survive in large numbers.Mouse-Proof Construction. The most successful and permanent form of house mouse control is to "build them out" by eliminating all openings through which they can enter a structure. All places where food is stored, processed or used should be made mouse-proof. Dried grain and meat products should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters or other resealable airtight containers.
Seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude mice. Steel wool mixed with caulking compound makes a good plug. Patching material needs to be smooth on the surface to prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound. Seal cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents and utilities with metal or concrete. Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber or other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice
Traps. Trapping is an effective control method. When only a few mice are present in a building, it is usually the preferred control method. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons, (2) it permits the user to make sure that the mouse has been killed and (3) it allows for disposal of the mouse carcasses, thereby avoiding dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
The simple, inexpensive wood-based snap trap is effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Bait traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. Multiple-capture live traps, which can capture several mice once set, are also available in some hardware and feed stores. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of mouse activity is seen. Place them so that mice will pass directly over the
Poison Baits (Rodenticides). Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold. Do not buy unlabeled rodent baits from street vendors or other uncertain sources. Do not purchase baits that have an incomplete label or one that appears to be “homemade.”
“Building out” rodents and trapping are the most effective control methods. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and mouse-proofing should be improved. Remember that rodent baits are poisons. Make sure they are registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and always follow the label instructions exactly. If baits are used indoors, be sure they are labeled specifically for interior use.
The active ingredients in baits are used at very low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits cause death only after they are eaten for a number of days, although some types can cause death following a single feeding. Make sure that fresh bait is available continuously until mice stop feeding. Depending on the number of mice, this may require up to three weeks.
Bait Selection and Placement. Baits are available in several forms. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are available in small plastic, cellophane or paper packets. These sealed "place packs" keep bait fresh and make it easy to place the baits in burrows, walls or other locations. Mice gnaw into the packet to feed on the bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most situations. Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is important. Place baits in several locations no farther than 10 feet apart and preferably closer. For effective control, baits or traps must be located where mice are living. Use of tamper-resistant bait stations provides a safeguard for people, pets and other animals. Place bait stations next to walls with the openings close to the wall or in other places where mice are active. When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Clearly label all bait stations "Caution—Mouse Bait" as a safety precaution.
Sound and Electronic Devices. Although mice are easily frightened by strange or unfamiliar noises, they quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds and are often found living in grain mills or factories and other noisy locations. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing have very limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they lose their intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established mice or rats from buildings because they rapidly become accustomed to the sound.
Control by Cats and Dogs. Although cats, dogs and other predators may kill mice, they do not give effective control in most circumstances. In fact, rodents may live in very close association with dogs and cats. Mice and rats may obtain much of their diet from the pet's dish or from what pets spill.
Disposal of Dead Rodents
Always wear intact rubber or plastic gloves when removing dead rodents and when cleaning or disinfecting items contaminated by rodents. Put the dead rodent in a plastic bag; the bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tightfitting lids. Traps can be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of three tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol (such as LysolR). After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and warm water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water
Rodentproofing.ampmexterminators.com
Rat Removal - How to Remove Rats / Mice
AmPm Exterminators
Pest Control, Carpenter Ants, Spiders, Rodents, Exclusion-Clean-Up Decontamination, Wasps, Odorous House Ants, Sugar Ants, Carpet Beetles, Clothing Pests, Food Pests, Termites, Fleas, Cockroaches, & Silverfish
House Mouse Prevention & Control
*The house mouse (Mus musculus) is considered one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. House mice live and thrive under a variety of conditions in and around homes and farms. House mice consume food meant for humans or pets. They contaminate food-preparation surfaces with their feces, which can contain the bacterium that causes food poisoning (salmonellosis). Their constant gnawing causes damage to structures and property.
Recognizing Mouse Infestations
Droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests, made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, are often found in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are occasionally seen during daylight hours.
House Mouse Facts
House mice are gray or brown rodents with relatively large ears and small eyes. An adult weighs about 1/2 ounce and is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long, including the 3 to 4 inch tail.
Although house mice usually feed on cereal grains, they will eat many kinds of food. They eat often, nibbling bits of food here and there. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up 13 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. They can slip through a crack that a pencil will fit into (sightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter).
In a single year, a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months.
Prevention and Control
Effective mouse control involves sanitation, mouse proof construction and population reduction. The first two are useful as preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction is almost always necessary. Reduction techniques include trapping and poisoning.
Sanitation. Mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter. Consequently, no matter how good the sanitation, most buildings in which food is stored, handled or used will support house mice if not mouse-proofed. Although good sanitation will seldom eliminate mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Good sanitation will also reduce food and shelter for existing mice and in turn make baits and traps more effective. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to rest, hide or build nests and rear young, they cannot survive in large numbers.Mouse-Proof Construction. The most successful and permanent form of house mouse control is to "build them out" by eliminating all openings through which they can enter a structure. All places where food is stored, processed or used should be made mouse-proof. Dried grain and meat products should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters or other resealable airtight containers.
Seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude mice. Steel wool mixed with caulking compound makes a good plug. Patching material needs to be smooth on the surface to prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound. Seal cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents and utilities with metal or concrete. Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber or other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice
Traps. Trapping is an effective control method. When only a few mice are present in a building, it is usually the preferred control method. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons, (2) it permits the user to make sure that the mouse has been killed and (3) it allows for disposal of the mouse carcasses, thereby avoiding dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
The simple, inexpensive wood-based snap trap is effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Bait traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. Multiple-capture live traps, which can capture several mice once set, are also available in some hardware and feed stores. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of mouse activity is seen. Place them so that mice will pass directly over the
Poison Baits (Rodenticides). Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold. Do not buy unlabeled rodent baits from street vendors or other uncertain sources. Do not purchase baits that have an incomplete label or one that appears to be “homemade.”
“Building out” rodents and trapping are the most effective control methods. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and mouse-proofing should be improved. Remember that rodent baits are poisons. Make sure they are registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and always follow the label instructions exactly. If baits are used indoors, be sure they are labeled specifically for interior use.
The active ingredients in baits are used at very low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits cause death only after they are eaten for a number of days, although some types can cause death following a single feeding. Make sure that fresh bait is available continuously until mice stop feeding. Depending on the number of mice, this may require up to three weeks.
Bait Selection and Placement. Baits are available in several forms. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are available in small plastic, cellophane or paper packets. These sealed "place packs" keep bait fresh and make it easy to place the baits in burrows, walls or other locations. Mice gnaw into the packet to feed on the bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most situations. Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is important. Place baits in several locations no farther than 10 feet apart and preferably closer. For effective control, baits or traps must be located where mice are living. Use of tamper-resistant bait stations provides a safeguard for people, pets and other animals. Place bait stations next to walls with the openings close to the wall or in other places where mice are active. When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Clearly label all bait stations "Caution—Mouse Bait" as a safety precaution.
Sound and Electronic Devices. Although mice are easily frightened by strange or unfamiliar noises, they quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds and are often found living in grain mills or factories and other noisy locations. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing have very limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they lose their intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established mice or rats from buildings because they rapidly become accustomed to the sound.
Control by Cats and Dogs. Although cats, dogs and other predators may kill mice, they do not give effective control in most circumstances. In fact, rodents may live in very close association with dogs and cats. Mice and rats may obtain much of their diet from the pet's dish or from what pets spill.
Disposal of Dead Rodents
Always wear intact rubber or plastic gloves when removing dead rodents and when cleaning or disinfecting items contaminated by rodents. Put the dead rodent in a plastic bag; the bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tightfitting lids. Traps can be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of three tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol (such as LysolR). After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and warm water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water
www.ampmexterminators.com
Pest Control, Carpenter Ants, Spiders, Rodents, Exclusion-Clean-Up Decontamination, Wasps, Odorous House Ants, Sugar Ants, Carpet Beetles, Clothing Pests, Food Pests, Termites, Fleas, Cockroaches, & Silverfish
House Mouse Prevention & Control
*The house mouse (Mus musculus) is considered one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. House mice live and thrive under a variety of conditions in and around homes and farms. House mice consume food meant for humans or pets. They contaminate food-preparation surfaces with their feces, which can contain the bacterium that causes food poisoning (salmonellosis). Their constant gnawing causes damage to structures and property.
Recognizing Mouse Infestations
Droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests, made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, are often found in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are occasionally seen during daylight hours.
House Mouse Facts
House mice are gray or brown rodents with relatively large ears and small eyes. An adult weighs about 1/2 ounce and is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long, including the 3 to 4 inch tail.
Although house mice usually feed on cereal grains, they will eat many kinds of food. They eat often, nibbling bits of food here and there. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up 13 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. They can slip through a crack that a pencil will fit into (sightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter).
In a single year, a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months.
Prevention and Control
Effective mouse control involves sanitation, mouse proof construction and population reduction. The first two are useful as preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction is almost always necessary. Reduction techniques include trapping and poisoning.
Sanitation. Mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter. Consequently, no matter how good the sanitation, most buildings in which food is stored, handled or used will support house mice if not mouse-proofed. Although good sanitation will seldom eliminate mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Good sanitation will also reduce food and shelter for existing mice and in turn make baits and traps more effective. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to rest, hide or build nests and rear young, they cannot survive in large numbers.Mouse-Proof Construction. The most successful and permanent form of house mouse control is to "build them out" by eliminating all openings through which they can enter a structure. All places where food is stored, processed or used should be made mouse-proof. Dried grain and meat products should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters or other resealable airtight containers.
Seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude mice. Steel wool mixed with caulking compound makes a good plug. Patching material needs to be smooth on the surface to prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound. Seal cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents and utilities with metal or concrete. Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber or other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice
Traps. Trapping is an effective control method. When only a few mice are present in a building, it is usually the preferred control method. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons, (2) it permits the user to make sure that the mouse has been killed and (3) it allows for disposal of the mouse carcasses, thereby avoiding dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
The simple, inexpensive wood-based snap trap is effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Bait traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. Multiple-capture live traps, which can capture several mice once set, are also available in some hardware and feed stores. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of mouse activity is seen. Place them so that mice will pass directly over the
Poison Baits (Rodenticides). Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold. Do not buy unlabeled rodent baits from street vendors or other uncertain sources. Do not purchase baits that have an incomplete label or one that appears to be “homemade.”
“Building out” rodents and trapping are the most effective control methods. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and mouse-proofing should be improved. Remember that rodent baits are poisons. Make sure they are registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and always follow the label instructions exactly. If baits are used indoors, be sure they are labeled specifically for interior use.
The active ingredients in baits are used at very low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits cause death only after they are eaten for a number of days, although some types can cause death following a single feeding. Make sure that fresh bait is available continuously until mice stop feeding. Depending on the number of mice, this may require up to three weeks.
Bait Selection and Placement. Baits are available in several forms. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are available in small plastic, cellophane or paper packets. These sealed "place packs" keep bait fresh and make it easy to place the baits in burrows, walls or other locations. Mice gnaw into the packet to feed on the bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most situations. Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is important. Place baits in several locations no farther than 10 feet apart and preferably closer. For effective control, baits or traps must be located where mice are living. Use of tamper-resistant bait stations provides a safeguard for people, pets and other animals. Place bait stations next to walls with the openings close to the wall or in other places where mice are active. When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Clearly label all bait stations "Caution—Mouse Bait" as a safety precaution.
Sound and Electronic Devices. Although mice are easily frightened by strange or unfamiliar noises, they quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds and are often found living in grain mills or factories and other noisy locations. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing have very limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they lose their intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established mice or rats from buildings because they rapidly become accustomed to the sound.
Control by Cats and Dogs. Although cats, dogs and other predators may kill mice, they do not give effective control in most circumstances. In fact, rodents may live in very close association with dogs and cats. Mice and rats may obtain much of their diet from the pet's dish or from what pets spill.
Disposal of Dead Rodents
Always wear intact rubber or plastic gloves when removing dead rodents and when cleaning or disinfecting items contaminated by rodents. Put the dead rodent in a plastic bag; the bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tightfitting lids. Traps can be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of three tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol (such as LysolR). After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and warm water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water
www.ampmexterminators.com
How to Get Rid of Rats in the Crawl Space
contact a technician: 425 440 0966
Rodent Decontamination & Restoration
Rodent urine, droppings and other contamination pose a health hazard that has to be remedied quickly.
If these problems appear during a home inspection, someday when your welling your home, it will be called out and require immediate remedy—if not cost you the sale of your home as many buyers back out with such news.
Decontaminate & Restoration
Your Ampm service technician dons protective gear to enter tight spaces and remove filthy debris that rodents have left behind. This work is extremely difficult and unpleasant, but you need it done and we're trained, equipped, and dedicated to do it. Often this service can include includes use of an industrial vacuum, sweeping, gathering contaminated debris, location and removal of rodent nests and even animal carcasses.
Damaged Insulation – Removal and Reinstallation
Rats destroy, compress, and contaminate the insulation in thousands of attics and crawlspaces each year in the greater Seattle area.
In crawlspaces beneath homes the insulation is tucked between floor joists just under the floor. Rodents create runways and nests up inside the gap between the insulation and your floor. When that happens the insulation becomes contaminated and matted, so in addition to the filth, the insulation can no longer hold in heat (its "R factor"). In either case Cascade technicians will remove this damaged insulation. If we're working on your crawlspace this usually includes removing the vapor barrier as well, as rodents will tear it in order to build a nest underneath. All of the contaminated material is packed out, and then an organic disinfectant and odor-treatment is applied before we install a new vapor barrier and/or new insulation.
In attics most insulation is the loose, blown-in type. Rats love living in attic insulation because it provides great nesting material and they can burrow into it as it makes them feel safe. The problem is that not only do rats leave copious amounts of droppings and urine that contaminate the attic space but their activity, body weight, and urine compress the insulation greatly, reducing its ability to keep your home warm. Attics are tough places to crawl and work, but Ampm technicians are up to the task! In these cases we often use a industrial vacuum to remove huge amounts of rodent debris, damaged loose insulation and often roofing debris. Once the contaminated insulation is removed we apply an organic disinfectant and odor-treatment, and then install fresh new energy-efficient insulation.
Disinfect & Deodorize
Disinfect/Sanitize:
Rodents carry diseases and they leave filth that can create a biohazard. As part of either attic or substructure crawlspace cleanup, Ampm Pest Control applies a disinfectant to surfaces. This disinfectant can't be removed, and greatly aids in the decontamination process. It is applied as a fog that drifts into hard-to-reach areas or, when needed, as a heavier spray that penetrates deeper into the surface build-up.
Deodorize:
The odor from rat or mouse urine, feces, and dead rodent carcasses is horrendous. The stench is always found where they've lived and sometimes it reaches into the living space of your home. A related problem is the pheromones. These are scents that attract other rats or mice. We apply a proven deodorizer to help bring your home back to the comfortable and pleasant place it should be.
Insulation Reinstallation & Structural Restoration
After removing contaminated and damaged insulation (and other damaged items), our crew professionally installs new and proper R-valued insulation in difficult to reach areas. We install insulation from within the crawl area, overhead up under the subfloor. We also set up the reaches of an attic and provide blown in, high R-value insulation. Other damaged items could be flex exhaust ducting or even heating ductwork which are fully replaced.
Note: Damaged wiring is referred to a qualified electrician
Bait should only be used outdoors, after the rats or mice have been removed from the structure and after rodent exclusion has been applied. Rats come from an existing population near your home. Because rats are territorial, as soon as we have gotten rid of the resident rats, their territory will be up for grabs - and the pheromone scent left behind will attract new rodents.Our technician can protect and maintain your perimeter and keep nearby rodents from reentering and reinfesting your home.
Many homes do not have adequate insulation for our Northwest climate. A properly insulated home will save money, save energy, and increase comfort year-round. Our trained staff has the expertise necessary to fully insulate your attic and crawlspace to the optimum r-value
Start saving money today with a crawlspace and attic that is
clean and properly insulated for our Northwest Climate.
Attics
1. Remove soiled insulation and rodent droppings.
2. Remove all debris from attic.
3. Seal all holes to keep rodents out.
4. Sanitize and deoderize with neutralizing enzyme
Crawlspaces
1. Bag and remove all soiled insulation.
2. Remove all debris from crawlspace.
3. Clean rodent droppings from all surfaces.
4. Remove old vapor barrier.
5. Seal all holes to keep rodents out.
Insulation Removal and Cleanup
Call 425 440 0966 for more details.
Professional exterior rodent baiting
Exterior perimeter defense against reinfestation
Childproof and petproof bait stations
Rodent Decontamination & Restoration
Rodent urine, droppings and other contamination pose a health hazard that has to be remedied quickly.
If these problems appear during a home inspection, someday when your welling your home, it will be called out and require immediate remedy—if not cost you the sale of your home as many buyers back out with such news.
Decontaminate & Restoration
Your Ampm service technician dons protective gear to enter tight spaces and remove filthy debris that rodents have left behind. This work is extremely difficult and unpleasant, but you need it done and we're trained, equipped, and dedicated to do it. Often this service can include includes use of an industrial vacuum, sweeping, gathering contaminated debris, location and removal of rodent nests and even animal carcasses.
Damaged Insulation – Removal and Reinstallation
Rats destroy, compress, and contaminate the insulation in thousands of attics and crawlspaces each year in the greater Seattle area.
In crawlspaces beneath homes the insulation is tucked between floor joists just under the floor. Rodents create runways and nests up inside the gap between the insulation and your floor. When that happens the insulation becomes contaminated and matted, so in addition to the filth, the insulation can no longer hold in heat (its "R factor"). In either case Cascade technicians will remove this damaged insulation. If we're working on your crawlspace this usually includes removing the vapor barrier as well, as rodents will tear it in order to build a nest underneath. All of the contaminated material is packed out, and then an organic disinfectant and odor-treatment is applied before we install a new vapor barrier and/or new insulation.
In attics most insulation is the loose, blown-in type. Rats love living in attic insulation because it provides great nesting material and they can burrow into it as it makes them feel safe. The problem is that not only do rats leave copious amounts of droppings and urine that contaminate the attic space but their activity, body weight, and urine compress the insulation greatly, reducing its ability to keep your home warm. Attics are tough places to crawl and work, but Ampm technicians are up to the task! In these cases we often use a industrial vacuum to remove huge amounts of rodent debris, damaged loose insulation and often roofing debris. Once the contaminated insulation is removed we apply an organic disinfectant and odor-treatment, and then install fresh new energy-efficient insulation.
Disinfect & Deodorize
Disinfect/Sanitize:
Rodents carry diseases and they leave filth that can create a biohazard. As part of either attic or substructure crawlspace cleanup, Ampm Pest Control applies a disinfectant to surfaces. This disinfectant can't be removed, and greatly aids in the decontamination process. It is applied as a fog that drifts into hard-to-reach areas or, when needed, as a heavier spray that penetrates deeper into the surface build-up.
Deodorize:
The odor from rat or mouse urine, feces, and dead rodent carcasses is horrendous. The stench is always found where they've lived and sometimes it reaches into the living space of your home. A related problem is the pheromones. These are scents that attract other rats or mice. We apply a proven deodorizer to help bring your home back to the comfortable and pleasant place it should be.
Insulation Reinstallation & Structural Restoration
After removing contaminated and damaged insulation (and other damaged items), our crew professionally installs new and proper R-valued insulation in difficult to reach areas. We install insulation from within the crawl area, overhead up under the subfloor. We also set up the reaches of an attic and provide blown in, high R-value insulation. Other damaged items could be flex exhaust ducting or even heating ductwork which are fully replaced.
Note: Damaged wiring is referred to a qualified electrician
Bait should only be used outdoors, after the rats or mice have been removed from the structure and after rodent exclusion has been applied. Rats come from an existing population near your home. Because rats are territorial, as soon as we have gotten rid of the resident rats, their territory will be up for grabs - and the pheromone scent left behind will attract new rodents.Our technician can protect and maintain your perimeter and keep nearby rodents from reentering and reinfesting your home.
Many homes do not have adequate insulation for our Northwest climate. A properly insulated home will save money, save energy, and increase comfort year-round. Our trained staff has the expertise necessary to fully insulate your attic and crawlspace to the optimum r-value
Start saving money today with a crawlspace and attic that is
clean and properly insulated for our Northwest Climate.
Attics
1. Remove soiled insulation and rodent droppings.
2. Remove all debris from attic.
3. Seal all holes to keep rodents out.
4. Sanitize and deoderize with neutralizing enzyme
Crawlspaces
1. Bag and remove all soiled insulation.
2. Remove all debris from crawlspace.
3. Clean rodent droppings from all surfaces.
4. Remove old vapor barrier.
5. Seal all holes to keep rodents out.
Insulation Removal and Cleanup
Call 425 440 0966 for more details.
Professional exterior rodent baiting
Exterior perimeter defense against reinfestation
Childproof and petproof bait stations
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